Solar

Solar is a fifteen-year decision, worth reading year by year.

For a typical UK roof at 2026 prices, a well-sized array on a smart tariff pays for itself around year eight and then quietly compounds for the rest of the panel warranty. The chart below is the shape of that maths.

Cumulative return (£)

Years from install

£0
02468101214

Install cost

£6,800

6 to 8 panels + inverter

Payback year

Year 8

At 2026 tariffs, no battery uplift

Return by year 15

11,950

Warranty typically covers 25

The honest question

Are solar panels a good financial and environmental decision for a UK home in 2026?

The short verdict

For a house with a mostly unshaded south, east or west-facing roof and a daytime electricity load worth talking about, yes; a right-sized array pays back inside seven to ten years and then produces cheap electricity for another fifteen. For a shaded roof, a heavy north-only aspect, or a household that is out of the house every daylight hour with no battery, the maths gets weaker and needs to be run honestly rather than sold enthusiastically.

Sense check

Could something simpler solve this?

The electricity bill keeps climbing and the roof is sitting empty.

  1. 01

    Cut the consumption you can before generating more

    Draught-proofing, LED lighting, standby audits and moving the biggest loads to off-peak hours saves a meaningful amount before any capital spend. Solar earns its money against real consumption, not brochure consumption.

  2. 02

    Look at a time-of-use tariff

    A wide off-peak spread (Octopus Cosy, Go or Agile) can lower the bill enough that the solar case has to earn its keep against a different baseline. Worth pricing before ordering panels.

If you've considered these and solar is still the right answer for your home, here's how to choose well.

With a right-sized array on the right roof, solar generates cheaper electricity on a house you already own for 25 years. Size to how you actually use power, not to fill the roof; battery and export decisions come after.

The decision, in six questions

Show, don't tell.

Six questions decide whether solar is a strong candidate for your house, worth considering with caveats, or the wrong shape of investment.

Strong candidate
Worth considering
Probably not for your home
  1. Q01

    Is your roof mostly unshaded between 10am and 4pm, and facing somewhere between east and west through south?

    Yes

    The physical case is strong; the buy is now about sizing and specification.

    Strong candidate

    No

    A shaded roof or a hard north-facing aspect is where solar disappoints; the case has to earn its keep on other grounds.

    Worth considering

  2. Q02

    Is anyone home during daylight hours on most days, or can you shift laundry, dishwashing and hot-water heating into daylight?

    Yes

    Self-consumption climbs from 25 per cent to 50 per cent without any battery spend; the payback maths tightens sharply.

    Strong candidate

    No

    Empty-house households need a battery for solar to pay back on time; treat the two as one decision, not two.

    Worth considering

  3. Q03

    Do you own the property, and plan to be in it for at least seven years?

    Yes

    The payback window sits comfortably inside the ownership horizon.

    Strong candidate

    No

    Under seven years the maths gets tight; a well-installed array does add to sale value but the direct return is compressed.

    Worth considering

  4. Q04

    Is the roof structure sound and the covering good for another 15 years, or is a re-roof due within five?

    Yes

    Fit solar now; the panels sit on the covering for their whole life.

    Strong candidate

    No

    Re-roof first, then fit solar onto the new covering. Removing and refitting panels for a re-roof costs £600 to £1,500 and is avoidable.

    Probably not for your home

  5. Q05

    Is your annual electricity consumption above 2,500 kWh, or do you plan to add a heat pump, EV or hot-water heating from electricity in the next few years?

    Yes

    There is real daytime load for the array to displace; the maths sits at the strong end of the range.

    Strong candidate

    No

    A very small household with low electricity use is a weaker case; the array is largely selling to the grid, not offsetting expensive retail units.

    Worth considering

  6. Q06

    Are you happy running the numbers on your actual consumption, or do you want the installer's payback figure taken at face value?

    Yes

    Insist on a system sized to your real half-hourly load; that is where a good installer proves themselves.

    Strong candidate

    No

    Installers' generic payback figures assume best-case self-consumption; ask for the model against your smart-meter data or add roughly two years to their quoted payback.

    Worth considering

What usually changes the answer

What usually changes the answer

Change one of these and our recommendation often changes with it.

If this were our house

For a UK 3-bed semi with a south-facing rear roof, one adult working from home three days a week and an EV on the driveway

We would fit an unshaded 5 to 6kW array on the south-facing rear roof and stop there for phase one. That is enough to cover the daytime baseline, the EV's daylight-hour top-ups on the working-from-home days, and the summer heat-water heating via a simple immersion diverter. We would not fill the east-facing front roof at the same time; the marginal panels there earn a lot less than the ones on the south, and the case for filling them is much stronger once a battery has been added and consumption patterns are known.

We would run the array without a battery for the first summer, watch the self-consumption figure on the app, and only then decide the battery size. Most households discover their real self-consumption is higher than the installer's default assumption, which changes the battery decision. If the consumption profile is as expected, we would add a 10 to 13kWh battery in year two and split the case for that spend against both solar surplus storage and off-peak tariff arbitrage; not against solar alone.

See the batteries case

When we'd say no

We probably wouldn't recommend this if...

We would rather lose the sale than take you somewhere the numbers don't stand up.

  • You are being sold a 6kW array for a household using 2,000 kWh a year with no plans for a heat pump or an EV. You will export three-quarters of what the panels make at 5 to 15 pence, while paying 28 pence for the units you import in winter; the maths does not work.

  • The roof is heavily shaded for the middle four hours of the day and the installer is not proposing power-optimisers or micro-inverters. A single string inverter on a shaded roof loses far more than the shaded panel would; the specification is wrong for the roof.

  • The roof needs re-covering within the next five years. Fit the roof first, then the panels; removing and refitting an array to allow a re-roof costs £600 to £1,500 and is avoidable.

  • The quote is for an in-roof integrated system on a house that does not have a planning constraint requiring it. In-roof systems are a 20 to 40 per cent premium for a look; on a house that would accept on-roof panels, the extra spend is aesthetic, not functional.

  • You are on a two or three-year ownership horizon and the installer's payback figure is being quoted at nine years. The maths does not close inside your window unless the sale-value uplift is credible in your local market; get that verified independently before signing.

  • The installer will not model the shade on your specific roof with a proper shading tool (drone survey, PVGIS, HelioScope). Generic tables miss stripe-shading and are the single biggest source of over-quoted generation.

What most people get wrong

Assumptions that quietly break the answer.

The trade at a glance

What you're actually trading.

A five-step editorial scale, not a rating. Green weight is a gain; grey weight is a cost you carry.

  • Up-front cost

    High

    £4,500 to £8,500 for a 4 to 6kW array installed on a competent roof at 2026 UK prices; £8,500 to £14,000 for 6 to 10kW.

  • Annual generation (typical UK 4kW array)

    High

    3,400 to 3,800 kWh a year depending on roof pitch, orientation, latitude and shade; equivalent to roughly £600 to £900 of retail electricity at 50 per cent self-consumption.

  • Self-consumption without changes

    Low

    25 to 35 per cent for a default household; the rest is exported at 5 to 15 pence.

  • Self-consumption with load-shifting and a battery

    Very high

    70 to 85 per cent with a right-sized battery and time-of-use scheduling; the number that transforms the payback.

  • Payback period

    Medium

    7 to 10 years for a competent install on a right-sized array; 5 to 7 years with a battery and time-of-use tariff on a house with real daytime load.

  • Lifespan

    Very high

    Panels are warranted at 25 to 30 years and typically produce 80 per cent of their day-one output at year 25; inverters last 10 to 15 years and are a mid-life replacement.

  • Install disruption

    Low

    One to two days on the roof, half a day inside for the inverter and cabling; no plaster damage in most cases.

  • Maintenance burden

    Very low

    A visual check every few years; occasional bird-proofing on the array; inverter replacement mid-life. That is the whole list.

What it costs

Illustrative UK ranges, 2026.

3kW array installed
£3,800 – £5,800

Small semi or town house; enough for a low-consumption household with modest daytime load.

4kW array installed
£4,500 – £6,800

The most common size for a 3-bed semi; roughly 3,400 to 3,800 kWh a year.

5 to 6kW array installed
£5,800 – £9,000

The right size for a household with a heat pump, EV or full-time home working; typically 4,700 to 5,700 kWh a year.

8 to 10kW array installed
£9,000 – £14,000

Larger detached and modern-detached homes; usually justified by a heat pump plus EV plus daytime consumption together.

In-roof / integrated array premium
+20 to +40 per cent

For heritage or planning constraints, or where the on-roof aesthetic is refused; a real premium for a look.

Bird-proofing
£200 – £600

Often omitted from the quote and worth insisting on; pigeon nesting under panels is the single biggest post-install complaint.

SEG export income (typical 4kW, default household)
£120 – £280 per year

At 2026 export tariff rates; higher on Octopus Flux or similar time-of-day export tariffs.

Inverter replacement (year 12 to 15)
£800 – £1,600

Budget for a mid-life inverter change; hybrid inverters at the top of the range.

Annual maintenance
£0 – £120

Panels are largely self-cleaning in the UK climate; the only recurring spend is occasional bird-proofing or a soft wash for coastal soiling.

Ranges triangulated from MCS-registered installer quotes across the UK in 2025 to 2026, Energy Saving Trust generation figures, PVGIS location-specific yield modelling and SEG tariff data from Octopus, EDF, OVO and E.ON. Refreshed each spring before the season. Your figure depends on roof orientation, shade, latitude and how the household uses the output.

You've got the answer

On a competent roof with a household happy to shift some load into daylight hours, or with a right-sized battery, solar is one of the strongest capital investments available to a UK homeowner in 2026; typical paybacks land at seven to ten years for solar-only, five to seven with a battery and time-of-use tariff, and the array then produces cheap electricity for another fifteen. The case weakens sharply on heavily shaded roofs or in very-low-consumption households; get the shade modelled properly and the sizing done against your real half-hourly data.

You can stop here if you're still deciding. The rest of this page is for readers who have already committed and want to spend the money well.

Already going ahead? Everything worth knowing follows.

If you're going ahead

What to know before you spend the money.

This half of the page is written for the reader who has decided. It reads in the order the decisions come at you.

Which version

Which version should I choose?

Standard on-roof array with string inverter

Panels mounted on rails above the existing roof covering, wired in series into a single string inverter in the loft or garage. The default UK domestic install; cheapest per watt, robust and well understood.

When we'd choose it

Any unshaded roof with a clean single-plane aspect. Roughly two-thirds of UK domestic installs fit this pattern.

On-roof array with power-optimisers or micro-inverters

Each panel has its own DC optimiser or micro-inverter, allowing each to operate at its own maximum power point independently. Adds £60 to £120 per panel; recovers 5 to 20 per cent of generation on any array where shade would otherwise pull the whole string down.

When we'd choose it

Any roof with partial shade from a chimney, dormer, tree or neighbour's building; also multi-orientation arrays where east and west panels share an inverter with south panels.

In-roof / integrated array

Panels replacing the roof covering rather than sitting above it; flush with the roofline. A 20 to 40 per cent premium over on-roof; genuinely tidier look and, on a re-roof, no double-spend on tiles under panels.

When we'd choose it

Heritage or planning-constrained houses where on-roof panels would be refused, and any project doing a full re-roof at the same time.

Solar tiles / integrated slates

Each tile or slate carries a small PV cell; the whole roof looks like a slate roof from the ground. Significant premium (roughly double the £/kW of on-roof) and lower generation per m² than conventional panels, but the aesthetic case is real.

When we'd choose it

Listed buildings and conservation-area houses where visible arrays are refused, and clients where aesthetic is worth the premium. Rarely the right buy on economics alone.

Hybrid inverter with battery-ready wiring

A single inverter that handles both the solar array and (later or now) a DC-coupled battery. Small premium over a solar-only inverter; avoids duplicate hardware if a battery is added later.

When we'd choose it

Any household that plans to add a battery within five years; the marginal cost is small and the retrofit is much cleaner.

Your house

How will it affect my house?

Roof orientation and pitch.

South at 30 to 40 degrees is the theoretical optimum for the UK; east or west at similar pitches produce 80 to 85 per cent of the south figure. Flatter pitches (15 to 25 degrees) lose a few per cent in winter and gain a few in summer, which usually matches household use fine. Shallow flat roofs need ballasted or angled frames; north-facing pitches are almost never worth the panels.

Multi-orientation arrays (east and west, or south and east) can deliver higher self-consumption than a same-total south-only array, because generation spreads across more hours of the day.

Shading and how the inverter handles it.

A single stripe of shade across one panel for four hours a day, if the inverter is a plain string inverter, can pull the output of the whole string down disproportionately. Power-optimisers or micro-inverters isolate the shaded panel and recover most of the loss.

Insist on a proper shade model (drone survey, PVGIS or HelioScope) before signing; installer-eye-only shade assessment is the single biggest source of over-quoted generation.

Household consumption pattern.

A working-from-home household or a household with children at home during the day self-consumes more of the array's output at retail prices; an empty-house household exports most of it at export prices. The gap is roughly £150 to £400 a year on a 4kW array; large enough to move the payback by two years.

Load-shifting (running the dishwasher and washing machine on daylight timers, heating hot water via an immersion diverter in the middle of the day) is free and pushes self-consumption from 25 per cent to 45 per cent typical.

Existing and planned electric loads.

A heat pump triples winter electricity load and is largely uncorrelated with solar output; the array offsets summer hot-water demand but not the winter heating spike. An EV, by contrast, correlates strongly with daytime solar if charging is scheduled to daylight hours; this is where oversized arrays start to earn.

Plan the electrification you know is coming when sizing the array; retrofit expansions later are more expensive per panel than adding capacity up front.

Structure and roof condition.

Panels weigh 10 to 15 kg per m²; nearly all modern UK roofs carry this without issue, but timber-framed cottage roofs and some concrete-tile roofs at the edge of their loading tolerance need a structural check. Ask for the installer's structural sign-off, not just the wind-load calc.

If the roof covering has fewer than 15 years of life left, re-cover before fitting solar; removing and refitting an array for a re-roof costs £600 to £1,500 and is easily avoided by sequencing the work.

In use

How well will it actually work?

Photovoltaic cells generate DC electricity.

Sunlight liberates electrons in a silicon lattice, generating direct current at panel-level voltages of 30 to 50V. A modern monocrystalline panel converts 20 to 22 per cent of the sunlight hitting it into electricity; higher-tier panels reach 22 to 23 per cent, cheaper panels 18 to 20.

The inverter converts DC to grid-compatible AC.

A string inverter takes the combined DC output from a series of panels and converts it to 230V AC synchronised with the grid. Modern inverters run at 96 to 98 per cent conversion efficiency and last 10 to 15 years. Hybrid inverters do the same job while also managing a battery on the DC side.

Self-consumption, export and metering.

Generated electricity is used first by the house at the moment it is produced; whatever the house does not use is exported to the grid via the smart meter. A generation meter (or the inverter's own logging) records total production; the smart meter records net import and export. Payback maths uses all three figures; installers who only quote generation without self-consumption are quoting the easy half.

Anti-islanding and G99.

G99 regulations require domestic solar to shut down automatically when the grid fails, to protect linesmen working on the network. This is why solar alone does not power the house through a power cut; only a battery with a specified EPS circuit provides backup, and this is a separate specification choice.

Common mistakes

What usually goes wrong?

  1. 01

    Array sized to fill the roof rather than to household consumption; export share climbs, self-consumption stays low, payback stretches beyond the quoted figure.

  2. 02

    Shade not modelled properly; a chimney or a neighbour's tree pulls 15 to 25 per cent off the annual figure and the owner blames the panels.

  3. 03

    String inverter used on a partially shaded roof where power-optimisers were needed; a single shaded panel drags the whole string down disproportionately.

  4. 04

    Bird-proofing omitted; pigeons nest under the panels within eighteen months and the noise and mess become the household's biggest complaint.

  5. 05

    Installer's payback figure quoted against best-case self-consumption; real household consumption pattern is different and the payback lands two years later than promised.

  6. 06

    Roof re-covered five years after solar was fitted, requiring the array to be removed and refitted at £600 to £1,500 avoidable spend.

  7. 07

    Battery bolted on later with a non-hybrid inverter; a second inverter is needed and the installation is messier than it would have been with a hybrid at day one.

  8. 08

    Owner expects the system to power the house through a blackout without an EPS circuit; disappointment when it shuts down at the first power cut.

The installer

How do I choose a good installer?

The gap between the best and worst installer on this list of trades is larger than the gap between products. Judge the person, not the brochure.

Questions worth asking

  • Q01Are you MCS-registered, and can I see the last three MCS certificates you have issued?
  • Q02Will you model the shade on my specific roof using PVGIS, HelioScope or an equivalent tool, and share the shade plot with the quote?
  • Q03Will you size the array against my actual half-hourly smart-meter data (last 12 months), and show me the self-consumption model alongside the generation figure?
  • Q04String inverter, power-optimisers or micro-inverters, and why for this roof specifically?
  • Q05Hybrid inverter or solar-only inverter, and what does the wiring look like if I add a battery in two years?
  • Q06What is the DNO application status (G99 or G100), and are you handling it?
  • Q07Is bird-proofing included as standard? If not, what does adding it cost?
  • Q08What SEG tariff do you recommend for my supplier, and is the export MPAN registration in scope?
  • Q09What warranty is on panels, inverter, workmanship and roof waterproofing, and who honours which?
  • Q10Can I speak to three previous customers within twenty miles of me whose installs are more than three years old?

Red flags

  • Installer is not MCS-registered.
  • Payback figure quoted before any consumption data has been requested.
  • Shade assessment done by eye from the road, with no shade plot in the quote.
  • "South is the only orientation worth having" or "solar doesn't work on east/west roofs"; both wrong.
  • String inverter proposed for a partially shaded roof without a rationale for skipping optimisers.
  • Bird-proofing not mentioned in the quote.
  • Export tariff (SEG) advice absent from the quote.
  • Sales pressure to sign today for a discount; a competent solar quote should stand for at least a week.
  • Payback figure well under seven years without a battery and without a heat pump or EV in the case; almost always an inflated self-consumption assumption.

Maintenance

How do I look after it?

Panels are largely self-cleaning in UK rainfall. A visual inspection every three to five years checks for pigeon nesting, moss growth on frames and any degraded connectors; a proper installer offers this as a service call at £80 to £180. The inverter is the mid-life replacement; expect to change it at year 12 to 15 at £800 to £1,600. Monitoring apps flag any panel-level or string-level underperformance; check the app every few months rather than only when the bill looks odd. Whole-system life is 25 to 30 years for the panels, one inverter replacement, and one or two connector checks.

Real questions

Things people actually ask.

Does solar work in the UK?
Yes, better than most people expect. A 4kW array generates 3,400 to 3,800 kWh a year across the country; even northern Scotland reaches around 3,000. UK generation figures are within 15 per cent of Germany's, which has one of the largest solar markets in the world.
How long does a solar system take to pay back?
Seven to ten years for a solar-only install on a competent roof at 2026 UK prices; five to seven years with a right-sized battery and a time-of-use tariff on a household with real daytime load. Installer figures assume best-case self-consumption; add roughly two years unless the quote is based on your smart-meter data.
How long do solar panels last?
Panels are warranted at 25 to 30 years and typically produce 80 per cent of their day-one output at year 25. Inverters last 10 to 15 years and are a mid-life replacement (£800 to £1,600). The whole system life is comfortably 30 years.
What is self-consumption and why does it matter?
Self-consumption is the share of solar output used in the house at the moment it is produced. Retail electricity is worth 27 to 34 pence a kWh; exported electricity is worth 5 to 15 pence. Self-consumption is the single most important economic variable; without changes, most households sit at 25 to 35 per cent, load-shifting reaches 45 to 55 per cent, and a battery gets to 70 to 85 per cent.
Do I need a battery with solar?
Not immediately. Run the array for the first summer, watch the self-consumption figure, and decide the battery size against real data. Load-shifting alone gets many households from 25 per cent self-consumption to 50 per cent for free; a battery then pushes the figure to 70 to 85 per cent. Households that are out during the day get to a battery earlier; households at home reach it later.
Will solar power the house in a blackout?
No, not by default. Grid-tied solar shuts down automatically when the grid fails (G99, to protect linesmen). Blackout backup requires a battery with an EPS (Emergency Power Supply) circuit, specified at install; most installations do not include this by default. Ask if it matters to you.
Is south the only orientation worth having?
No. East and west at 30 to 40 degrees produce 80 to 85 per cent of a south array's annual generation and often at times that match household consumption better. An east-west split can deliver higher self-consumption than a same-total south-only array. North-facing pitches are the one aspect not worth the panels.
What about shade from a chimney or a tree?
It matters, and how much it matters depends on the inverter design. A single stripe of shade for four hours a day, on a plain string inverter, can pull 15 to 25 per cent off the annual figure. Power-optimisers or micro-inverters at £60 to £120 per panel isolate the shaded panel and recover most of the loss. Insist on a proper shade model with the quote.
Should I go for in-roof or on-roof?
On-roof is the default; cheapest per watt, robust and well understood. In-roof (integrated) is a 20 to 40 per cent premium for a genuinely tidier look and is the right answer on heritage or planning-constrained houses. Solar tiles are the aesthetic premium, roughly double the £/kW; rarely the right buy on economics alone.
What about SEG (export) income?
SEG rates in 2026 sit at 5 to 15 pence a kWh across UK suppliers, with the highest rates on time-of-day export tariffs (Octopus Flux, EDF Sunday Saver-style). Treat export income as a bonus rather than the core of the payback; a household aiming for high export usually gets there by under-consuming their own generation, which is not the goal.
Do panels damage the roof?
No, when fitted competently. The mounting rails clip to rafters through the roof covering with weatherproofing kits; there is a small tile-lifting job at install and any later re-roof. A quality install is warranted for the roof waterproofing as well as the panels; ask who covers what.
House Summary

On an unshaded south, east or west-facing roof, with a household happy to shift some load into daylight hours or add a battery, solar is one of the strongest capital investments available to a UK homeowner in 2026. Typical paybacks: seven to ten years for solar-only, five to seven years with a battery and time-of-use tariff. The case weakens sharply on heavily shaded roofs and in very-low-consumption households; get the shade modelled properly and the array sized against your real smart-meter data, not a national average.

Next Step

See the batteries case

Solar's economics tighten sharply with a right-sized battery; the two are usually one decision rather than two. Ten minutes on that page tells you whether the battery half of the maths works for your household, and when to add it.