PIV

The £600 fix for the damp problem you've been mopping up for years.

Positive Input Ventilation gently pushes filtered air into your home from the loft, displacing the damp, stagnant air that causes condensation and mould. It's not as elegant as MVHR; but it costs a tenth as much, takes a day to fit, and works in houses MVHR can't economically reach.

Field guide
PIV
Read time
5 min read
Bias
Independent
Sources
UK installs

Start here

What most people
want to know first.

Four quick framings to help you place this topic inside your wider home plan.

  1. 01

    Start here if you have black mould around windows or in corners. That's a ventilation problem, not a damp problem. A dehumidifier treats the symptom. PIV treats the cause.

  2. 02

    Start here if you live in a Victorian or Edwardian terrace. These are the houses PIV is designed for; too leaky for MVHR to pay back, too damp to leave alone.

  3. 03

    Start here if you've been quoted over £900 for a PIV install. The unit is £300–400, the install is half a day. Anything over £800 needs justifying.

  4. 04

    Start here if you have no loft. PIV needs somewhere to draw air from. A flat or top-floor maisonette will usually need a different strategy; extract fans, trickle vents, or a dehumidifier.

The field guide

What you actually
need to know.

Independent, opinionated, and written for homeowners spending real money.

§01

How PIV actually works; and why it works in leaky houses.

A PIV unit sits in the loft. A low-speed fan pulls air from the loft space, passes it through a filter, and pushes it into the central hallway at a gentle but constant rate (typically 50–60 litres per second). That positive pressure displaces the damp, stale air inside the home, pushing it out through every leaky window, door and trickle vent.

It works in leaky houses precisely because the house is leaky. MVHR needs airtightness to function; PIV needs leakiness. Most pre-1990 UK housing stock leaks more than enough for PIV to do its job effectively.

The 'air from the loft' bit confuses people. Loft air in a typical UK home is drier than internal air for most of the year; the loft is ventilated by the eaves and breathes with the outside. The PIV is replacing moisture-laden kitchen-and-bathroom air with drier loft air, which the heating then warms.

§02

What PIV fixes; and what it doesn't.

PIV fixes condensation mould (the black spots around window seals and in corners), it fixes that 'stuffy' smell when you walk back into the house after a weekend away, and it dramatically reduces dust mite populations because they need humidity above 50% to thrive.

PIV doesn't fix rising damp (that's a wall problem), penetrating damp (that's a roof or render problem), or condensation that's actively pouring off cold-bridged surfaces (that's an insulation problem). If a damp survey identifies any of those causes, PIV is the wrong tool; fix the cause first.

PIV also doesn't filter to MVHR standard. It typically uses a G3 or G4 filter; adequate for pollen and gross dust, not adequate if your priority is removing PM2.5 from urban traffic.

§03

The heater question; heated PIV vs cold PIV.

Two flavours exist. Cold PIV is cheaper (£300–£500 for the unit) and pushes loft-temperature air into the hallway. In winter this can feel chilly at the inlet diffuser, though the temperature differential is usually smaller than people expect.

Heated PIV (£500–£900 for the unit) includes a small electric pre-heater that takes the chill off the supply air. Sounds attractive until you do the maths; the heater runs whenever the loft is below ~14°C, drawing 400–800W, and over a UK winter adds £30–£60 to your electricity bill. For most homes, cold PIV plus a well-positioned diffuser is the better answer.

§04

When PIV isn't the answer.

No loft means no PIV; the unit needs somewhere to draw air from. A flat, maisonette or warm-roof loft conversion rules it out. In those cases you're choosing between MVHR (if airtight enough), constant-extract fans in wet rooms, or just better behavioural ventilation.

A properly insulated, recently retrofitted home with good airtightness also doesn't need PIV; it needs MVHR. PIV in an airtight house just pressurises the space and forces moisture into the fabric, where it can condense in wall voids. Wrong tool for that job.

Severe pre-existing mould or rot needs remediation first. PIV will stop new mould forming once you've killed and cleaned the existing colonies.

What it costs

Illustrative UK ranges, 2026.

PIV unit (cold)
£300 – £500

Nuaire Drimaster, EnviroVent ATMOS or similar.

PIV unit (heated)
£500 – £900

Adds a pre-heater. Often not worth it for most UK lofts.

Standard install
£250 – £450

Half-day, single trade. Includes diffuser and a small electrical run.

Total fitted (cold PIV)
£600 – £900

Anything materially above this needs justifying.

Ranges drawn from MCS, EST, HPF and installer-quoted data. Your home's price depends on access, fabric and spec.

Decision framework

Three questions to answer before you commit.

01

Is my mould definitely a ventilation problem?

If it's around windows, in corners, or worst on north-facing walls; almost certainly yes. If it's at floor level on outside walls, get a damp survey first.

02

Cold PIV or heated PIV?

Cold for most UK homes; the loft is rarely cold enough to justify the heater's running cost.

03

Should I get MVHR instead?

Only if your home is airtight enough (sub-3 ACH @ 50Pa) or you're committing to make it airtight as part of the project.

Your next step

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Your next step

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